Just the other day as I was attempting to sort out my private cellar - dug some 15 metres deep into solid Tuscan rock – I realized just how difficult it is to put order into what is a world of such diversity. This is the world of Italian wine.
My cellar, which presently stocks some 3,000 bottles from all-Italy is divided by North, Centre and South Italy, yet this is far too generic. Each section has a number of regions, each with a production of red, white, rosé, sweet and sparkling wines, many made from grape varieties unique to that region.
Italy is by far the most complex, yet at the same time, the richest and most exciting wine producing country. The sheer diversity of its wines originate from 350 registered indigenous grape varieties, spread over twenty regions of production, each with their individual styles, unique 'terroir' and microclimate.
With this vast plethora, Italy is in a position to offer the consumer something different and exciting, as well as having the potential to reverse the growing trend of the globalization and standardization of wine. However, the other side of the coin is that such a variety of wines from so many sources (there are some 810,000 registered wine-bottlers) does not assist effective marketing and can be confusing to the consumer.
Italy has been producing wine since the ancient Roman times and even before that the Etruscans were known for their winemaking aptitude. Over the last quarter-century Italy's wine industry has undergone the most radical transformation ever witnessed in a single nation. As Italian wine producers emerge from several decades of evolution – some might say revolution - a whole new class of premium wines is driving this great wine-producing nation back to centre-stage in the world of wine.
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The country's classified wines are designated DOC or DOCG. In some cases this refers to the wine-growing hectares of an entire region; in other instances the DOC only refers to a few selected vineyards. Many of these denominations are famous worldwide while others are hardly known, even in their place of origin. And while DOC(G) wines continue to increase in number, only a minority of the country's total production is classed in this (theoretically, at least) cream-of-the-crop category. Today, ever more producers of high-quality wine in Italy prefer to market some or all of their range under the more liberal “lesser” IGT designation.
If we look at the 'anatomy' of Italy from north to south, each region has some very interesting estates and wines and it is difficult in so few words to bring these alive. The following is a mini-guide to Italy's regions and the main grape varieties you can find there.
NORTH
Valle d'Aosta – Europe's highest - altitude classified vineyards at Morgex draw on an interesting mix of Piedmontese and French varieties producing elegant, delicate wines. including Blanc de Valdigne, Petit Rouge, Malvoisie, and Vien de Nus,
Piemonte - Most of the region's classified wines derive from native vines and single varietals predominate, though not all carry variety names. Nebbiolo, source of Barolo and Barbaresco, plus Roero, Gattinara, Ghemme, Carema, Lessona, Nebbiolo d'Alba, and other eminent reds is by far the noblest vine. Structured Barbera along with fruity Dolcetto, Freisa and Pelaverga also play a dominant role in local red wines. Bubbly, aromatic Moscato d'Asti along native Arneis, from the Roero hills near Alba, and Cortese, at its best in Gavi, make increasingly stylish dry whites.
Trentino - Alto Adige- Riesling, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Kerner, Chardonnay and Muller Thurgau constitute the fragrant wines of the region. In the reds native Lagrein, Teroldego and Marzemino can be matched in class by Cabernet, Merlot and Pinot Nero.
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia – Whites excel here in particular Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and local favourite Tocai Friulano – now re-named Friulano only. Picolit and Ramandolo, made in
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CENTRE
Liguria – Great zesty whites known as Cinqueterre made from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino. Light reds made from Rossese di Dolceacqua and Ciliegiolo.
Emilia Romagna – The local bubbly Lambrusco comes in three different styles, from a lighter to a fuller bodied dry version with plenty of character. Sangiovese di Romagna (nothing to do with Tuscany's Sangiovese) is a round fruity wine with depth and balance. The white Albana makes excellent, sweet 'passito' wines.
Marche - White ageworthy Verdicchio from Castelli di Jesi and Matelica still firmly dominates the Marche's wine production, the main exception being Passerina and Pecorino from Offida. Quality led Rosso Piceno, based on Sangiovese and Rosso Conero, based on Montepulciano can show class as true bargains in aged red wines.
Toscana - The noble Sangiovese vine is the most prominent expression that dominates the region's reds – from the premium production of Brunello di Montalcino, right through to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano, and to the regions main production which is Chianti. The Super Tuscans take in a wide category of modern, Bordeaux style reds produced in various styles throughout Tuscany and particularly those from Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is by far the region's most interesting whites.
Umbria - Orvieto's whites made from Grecchetto with some Trebbiano and Malvasia make up the main local white variety. Sangiovese, Gamay and international varieties consitute most of the reds along with the Sagrantino, a tannic noble wine which shows great complexity with ageing, as well as producing a fine sweet passtio wine.
Lazio – The prime wine area around Rome is the Castelli Romani, taking in Frascati, Marino, Colli Albani, Colli Lanuvini, Montecompatri Colonna, and Velletri, producine white Trebbiano wines. In the reds good Cesanese compete with international Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
SOUTH
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