Louis XIV of France called it, "The wine of kings and the king of all wines." Tokai. Hungarian in true essence and renowned the world over for its unique taste. Amazing that it took a crop of rotting grapes for the world to sip it forever after. As Hungarian wine lore adds to the finesse of IFOWS 2008, Indian Sommeliers and wine enthusiasts spend a day sipping TOKAI. The Hungarian wine-producing tradition has been passed down from medieval times. The underground cellars of Tokai are an interconnected labyrinth of tunnels. They have made "la pourriture noble" – noble rot wines for sixteen generations here. But why are noble-rot wines produced in this region? It is due to the fog. Two rivers converge in the Tokai region and a thick blanket of fog covers the area during the autumn and winter months. The damp holds the secret to producing these special grapes.
The bottom of this bunch of grapes is rotting – the mould is caused by high humidity. The rotten grapes are known in French as "la pourriture noble". The rotting process concentrates the sugar content and makes the grapes incredibly sweet. The combination of moisture and sunshine creates just the right environment to produce grapes of perfect sweetness. The noble rot spreads to the whole bunch within two weeks. The grapes are then ready for harvesting.
Ottoman Turks invaded the Tokai region in the 17th century. When farmers returned to the villages, grapes that had gone un-harvested were found shrivelled and rotting. Left without a choice, the farmers went on to produce wine from them, and what they came up with had astonishing flavour. But the wine-making process also requires more time and skill to create the taste. At least 3 to 4 years are needed. A vintage wine can take several decades to mature.
With 80% humidity, the ceiling and walls covered with fungus, a sign that the cellar is nice and humid, the wine matures perfectly, waiting to reach the fine palate of the discerning. |